STEP into the dining room of Kimchi Hana Korean-Japanese Restaurant in South Plainfield, and right away you notice the smoke.
A row of massive exhaust fans seems to provide more din than ventilation, but for diners, the fans are a good sign: They signify grilling equipment in tables below, where servers insert buckets of glowing coals for grilling traditional Korean barbecue. The grills separate the diners into haves and have-nots, barbecue or regular. The regular tables move faster.
I recommend both. With one exception (more about that later), every dish I tried was very good, from the tiny fried anchovies in the beautiful collection of side dishes (banchan) served at the start of the meal to the lamb soup with sesame leaves.